WIFWI: Meet vintage fashion icon - Rachel Ann Jensen

Rachel is a glamour vintage blogger and co-founder of Sartoria Jensen - a bespoke tailor shop in heart of NYC which she runs with her husband. When I saw Rachel's IG profile for the first time, it caught my attention immediately. She crafts her vintage looks with a refinement of fashion connoisseur. I would describe her style as elegance of Grace Kelly meets eroticism of Dita Von Teese. So when I started to think of my series "Women In Fashion Who Inspire", I reached out to Rachel immediately.

O.: How long have you been interested in vintage glamour and pinup? I've read on your website that your love for classical looks started back when you lived in Rome, would you say that Italian fashion is different from American?

R.: I remember as a young girl being fascinated by the elegance of Audrey and Grace Kelly.  I have always been a girly girl at heart - I loved barbies, makeup, all of those things.  Then as a teen, I vividly remember discovering the styles of Bardot & Sophia Loren - the cat eye sold me immediately!  I always loved the idea of glamour and femininity, but the process was a long one in becoming the style that I have today.  My wedding was another pivotal moment, as I knew I wanted to have a vintage style mermaid gown and what I believed was "old hollywood glamour" for my hair and makeup.  But yes, it wasn't until my time in Italy that I reached a major turning point.  It wasn't so much the Italian fashion, but rather the old world tailoring school that my husband was training in - coupled with the historical beauty that surrounded us.  I was immersed in the bygone notion of real "aesthetic" and the passion/dedication behind creating something beautiful.  This naturally turned my attention to the past, where I discovered this very mindset was deeply interlaced in the fashions of yesteryear.  Finally, I would have to say that music has played a role in my style evolution.  My dad grew up in the old country scene of the south, not far from where Elvis was born, and I was actually born right by Graceland in Memphis, TN. My mom has also always loved music.  From rockabilly and old country to opera music, I've had a long-time love affair with the greats of music.

O.: Is there any particular fashion icon which inspired your style?

R.: As mentioned in the first question, some early inspirations were Audrey, Grace, Sophia and Brigitte, and then throughout the years I've been influenced by so many more of the golden age, such as: the aesthetic of 30's classics like 42nd Street & Gold Diggers (Joan Blondell, Ruby Keeler, Toby Wing) Ginger Rogers in Top Hat, Carole Lombard, Myrna Loy, Marilyn Monroe & Jayne Mansfield, Carole Landis, Betty Grable, Lana Turner, Lucille Ball, Doris Day, Diana Dors... the list goes on and on.  For modern day inspiration, Dita's street style was absolutely brilliant to me when I really took notice in the early 2000s (and she still is a constant inspiration!)

O.: A lot of people (including myself) see vintage fashion as a luxurious treat rather than everyday clothing. Would you describe vintage fashion as budget-friendly or rather something you have to invest in?

R.: For greatly preserved true vintage, and bespoke suits like my husband makes at our sartoria, it can definitely get expensive and is worth investing in some great pieces, but I have found that it is very very easy to create vintage style looks with items from most high street retail stores as well.  In my opinion, the keys are: knowing what pieces to look for and creating the right silhouette with shapewear, adding the right accessories, and HAIR & MAKEUP.  Vintage style hair and makeup are probably the biggest factors in separating modern from retro in today's world. (True vintage accessories aren't always overly expensive, as proven by my favorite Etsy shop Lady Jane Vintage).

O.: What would you recommend to someone who has never shopped vintage before? Where do I start?

R.: The first thing I would recommend, is to familiarize yourself with the actual eras.  Watch movies from the 30's - 60's, look at old fashion magazines, or simply search Pinterest for them. That's really the foundation and the place that I always return to when I'm needing some clear direction and vintage inspiration.  Next, I would recommend checking out the many great vintage reproduction brands.  I work with a lot of them, so you can always find them on my Instagram through my weekly outfits!

O.: Do you ever feel that your style catches other's people eye, and if so, what is the usual reaction?

R.: Yes, I do. The usual reaction is a lot of praise and compliments!  Most feedback is overwhelmingly positive and often times complete strangers will express their admiration.  Sometimes I experience people that think my style is extremely unusual, as if I am wearing a strange costume or something.  This is funny to me, knowing that classic style and simply "dressing" used to be the norm for everyone.  It's odd to me that putting together some effort and matching elements could seem more weird than the modern outfits that are now acceptable.  There was once a time when strangers would stare at anyone who wore sweatpants in public, and now the reverse is true! 

O.: The bespoke tailor shop Sartoria Jensen you run together with you husband looks very classical and crisp. Do you think that new yorkers are getting tired of mass-market and their passion for uniqueness is awakening?

R.: Thank you!  It does seem so - we have been surprised at how many people, as young as Gen Z age have taken to this passion for the craft of bespoke tailoring and dressing well.  Of course we still have many of the longtime patrons as well.  Both are wonderful, just knowing this passion is alive and in high demand!

O.: What do you think will be the next innovation in fashion?

R.: I am not sure, especially because one can argue that "innovation" will still draw from the past in some way.  Fashion is cyclical.  I personally think it's better to always wear the pieces that you know you love, and you know why you love them, than to chase trends.  In the same way, I don't think that just wearing vintage "because it is vintage" means that it will look good.  It's important to find out for yourself what makes you feel your best.  And adding a little glamour is always a good idea! :)